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Growing soft fruit.

Introduction
With its tangy, tart flesh, the blackcurrant (Ribes negrum) is a soft fruit that packs quite a punch. It’s also very high in Vitamin C and antioxidants, and a rarity in the shops. Blackcurrants, of course, are also the key ingredient in Ribena. (Their website claims that this hardy shrub is native to England's ‘famed Lake District and Yorkshire’.)

In the garden, I love the subtle scent of a blackcurrant bush. At home, we used the pruned old wood as kindling – heavenly!

If you’re buying a new blackcurrant bush, remember that you will need to wait for a few years for your first harvest. The fruit comes from stems in their second year of growth. Modern varieties such as Big Ben produce large fruit (around 3g each) which are sweet enough to eat out of hand. A blackcurrant bush can be productive for a dozen years or more.

Remember that blackcurrants are different to the other colours of currants – red, white etc. They have a different growth habit and require different pruning. Most varieties are also susceptible to frosts and Big Bud Mite – a pesky pest which can ruin your harvest.

Planting

With blackcurrants, you need to ensure that you plant the bush deeply – about 6cm or so below the nursery line (the division or soil mark between plant and soil). Firm the plant in well.  This is because you are aiming for a strong anchor for the plant for it to then throw up new shoot.

After planting, cut all the existing shoots to 3cm above ground level, preferably just above an existing bud. This may seem dramatic, but be patient – you are waiting for new stems in year one, which will then fruit the year after. Mulch well.

Spacing
1.5m apart, 1.5m (or more) between rows.

Growing notes
The roots of a blackcurrant bush are shallow – be careful when hoeing nearby.

Blackcurrants are propagated by hardwood cuttings.

Containers
You can buy blackcurrant bushes all year round in containers to plant out. Growing them permanently in containers is possible, but remember to feed regularly.

Pruning
They key to pruning blackcurrants is to encourage the growth of new shoots. A shoot will fruit from its second year of growth. After that, it will become less productive. So you can cut these stems out, making room for new shoots. You can tell the difference between new and old wood by the colour of the stem bark – young wood is lighter in colour. Each year, remove around a third of the older stems. If you inherit old, established plants you want to completely cut away any 3-4yr old wood.

Harvesting
A ‘strig' is the name for the delicate, dropping stem of flowers / fruit. The fruits at the top of the strig ripen first. Be patient – once they have turned black let them stay on the bush for a week or so. They freeze well, so keep a stash in the fridge freezer. 

Pests and disease
Big Bud Mite (see pic below), mildew, leaf curling midge, frost

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Varieties
Big Ben (large fruit), Ben Lomond (late fruiting), Ben Sarek (dwarfing) Ben Connan

Cooking
Syrups, pies, jams, sorbets.

Did You Know?
Blackcurrants were an invaluable source of Vitamin C during the rationing of World War Two and after. 

© City Leaf Ltd